At Shenzhen’s The Bay by Chef Fei, a dish of fish simmered with bamboo shoots in plum juice and pickled vegetables is plated individually and served to diners one by one. At Chiu Tang in Hong Kong, diners sit at round tables, share stories, sip oolong tea and reach for morsels from communal dishes. As Chaoshan cuisine, traditionally rooted in coastal neighbourhoods and late-night street food stalls, moves into luxury restaurants and is reimagined through French-style tasting menus and...