The queue outside Bar Leone isn’t just for its acclaimed cocktails. More than a few guests are making a pilgrimage for Leone’s signature smoked olives – cheekily called “the world’s best olives (maybe)” – and its mortadella sandwich, with layers of thinly sliced mortadella, creamy whipped ricotta and tangy pickled chillies sandwiched between crispy focaccia. Up the road at sister bar Montana, the pulled-pork sliders have their own following. Not long ago, bar food in Hong Kong usually meant a...