In an episode of his new CNN travel series, chef David Chang is driving down the highway to Las Vegas before stopping at a transport cafe off Interstate 15. The town is Hesperia, California, and the producers wanted Chang to try an Indian restaurant near a windscreen repair store. But Chang spots a Mexican cantina that looks promising. He chooses to eat at both, freaking out his camera crew. “I just wanted to taste things. When I see something, I’m like, ‘Oh, that looks interesting. I would like...